One of the best things about being in Japan is there are so many calligraphy shops. Comparing to a decade ago, less people are interested in and some shops have already closed. The one my teacher always bought was one of them. But still, there are so many shops in Tokyo.

After asking around, I´ve reached one in Kudanshita (九段下), Gyokusen-do (玉川堂).

As soon as enter, I could sense that the shop was full of smell of the mixture of the ink and the old paper. On the right wall was filled with selections of brushes.

Different materials, prices anything you need is here. Usually brown brushes are made of horse hair and have strength, which are suitable for beginners. The white brushes are made of sheep hair and are much softer than the horse hair.

They have unique brushes too. This is made of peacock feather. I love to try one day.

Of course big ones. How much I want to buy those but yes, they are really expensive.

Small brushes are also unique. I´m just happy to see tons of brushes around me. It´s like a Disneyland for me.

They are all papers! Each paper has names and so as brushes. I suppose that´s the model.

More papers. I think they are Jofuku (条幅) paper.

Is it possible that you can´t find what you need?

You can buy paper by Jo (条) and 1 Jo is 10 sheets.

Behind the casher, there are more brushes in the small drawers. Each one also has name.

There is a book corner and you can find any books from the technical one to monthly magazines.

While I was talking to the woman in the photo above, the owner came down. She introduced me to him. He´s the 7th owner of Gyokusen-do, Mr. Saito. He kindly explained to me about the brushes and wanted to know how are my calligraphy students in Berlin.

Mr. Sato gave me a permission to see upstairs. There are even bigger brushes hanging at the entrance.

It was like a museum. There were many special Suzuri (硯), Sumi (墨) and other calligraphy related materials.  The square one is a Sumi.  

Here is the Suzuri collection. 

I don´t remember what they were.

I must´ve spent more than an hour in the shop. At the end, they took a photo of us as a memory and Mr. Sato gave me three business cards because they have different designs. The brushes I bought from them are very good. I can even order by email asking them what I´m looking for. They will send me photos of the products. Very good customer service. I liked Gyokusen-do. 

If you ever be in Tokyo and like to buy some brushes, please try Gyokusen-do. It worth it!